Natsch A, Wasescha M
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2007
Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prostaglandin E(2) (PGE(2)). To study this activity in detail and to create cosmetically useful fragrances with the potential to reduce a key marker of skin irritancy in keratinocytes, an initial screening with pig blood platelets was conducted on 900 perfumery raw materials. Active compounds were then validated in a human keratinocyte cell line. Compounds which successfully reduced PGE(2) formation in this assay were used for the creation of active fragrances. These final fragrances reduced PGE(2) formation by >80% when dosed at 0.8 mug mL(-1) to keratinocytes. Application of such a fragrance in a hydrogel allowed reduction of UVB-induced PGE(2) formation in reconstituted epidermis (MatTec EpiDerm(TM)). Similarly, antiperspirant-induced formation of PGE(2) in reconstituted epidermis was reduced to background levels if these novel fragrances were used in the antiperspirant formulation. In conclusion, fragrances with this added cosmetic benefit can be created based on a database from a comprehensive screening. These fragrances may find use as a part of a formulation strategy optimizing each part of a cosmetic formulation for optimal product mildness.
Natsch A, Wasescha M. Fragrance raw materials and essential oils can reduce prostaglandin E2 formation in keratinocytes and reconstituted human epidermis. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2007;29(5):369-376.